Bimini's Back (#32)

We've arrived in the Bahamas. Bimini, to be exact. I grew up only forty-five miles from here, albeit all of it ocean. I fondly remember Alice Town as a kid. Colorful and tranquil, yet vibrant. It was my first glimpse of another culture. The world seemed larger after that. My last visit was in the early 80’s. What a mess. American cash, cars and disco bars were in command. The culture was in hiding, fearing for its life. I vowed never to return.
Well, the old Bimini is back. Very laid back. The smuggling money is long gone and a couple of hurricanes have passed through. Nature has regained her hold. The economy’s not good. Shells of new developments silently squat crumbling in the sweet salt air. Many stores are boarded up. But no one seems to mind too much. They go on as always, knowing prosperity will eventually return. Perhaps they’re enjoying the break. As for me, I’m loving it here.
There are only two losses I mourn. The Compleat Angler Hotel burnt down three years ago. It was one of the most interesting bars I’d ever had the pleasure of drinking in. It’s wooden walls spoke history and Hemingway. The way things used to be. The other was Chalk’s Flying Service. Their bright yellow seaplanes would roar overhead and land in the narrow channel. Then they’d crawl out of the harbor and taxi across the street. It was impressive. You couldn’t buy atmosphere like that with a sack full of pirate gold.
But the conch here is fresh and the Kalik beer is ice cold. (We keep them in the freezer.) We’ll enjoy the laid back attitude here for a few days. Then we’ll head east. Hopefully more pleasant surprises will await us there.